The anchovy adds a magical depth to food, especially in Italian foods, steak sauces and Caesar and green goddess dressings. Both are salty and cured, and a little goes a long way.

Anchovies, unfortunately, carry a stigma, you either love them or you hate them. If you have never used them, you will love the fact that they melt into whatever you are making, hot or cold. This allows complete anonymity of use. I discovered how really delicious they could be when I had my first Caesar salad. Salty, rich anchovy fillets are often the stealth ingredient in Mediterranean dishes because they have the subtle ability to add depth without hitting you over the head.

Nowadays, I keep a little jar of fillets in olive oil always on hand to add to dishes. My favorite way to use them is to alternate adding garlic slices and anchovies in slits in leg of lamb. Anchovy is a vital flavor in Worcestershire sauce, even though you don't really taste it. No wonder Worcestershire is included in so many recipes. Compound butters add incredible richness to meats and vegetables, especially with a little anchovy added. Don't use too much. You're not trying for something fishy.

Just soften butter, mix it with flavorful stuff and roll it into a log with wax paper. I use chopped anchovies and herbs de province. Chill the blended butter and melt a generous pat on each steak as it comes off the grill.