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Susan's Daily Tips
An Olive Oil Primer
- Decifering the Codes
When spending the hefty prices demanded for premium extra-virgins, make sure they have a harvest ("recolta" in Italian) date that is less than one year back.
In the Northern Hemisphere, olives are usually harvested between October and January.
In the Southern Hemisphere, between April and July. Flavors fade after a year.
Olive-Oil Golden Rule: Older is never better in olive oils.
"Virgin" olive oil can contain up to 4 percent acidity. You rarely see this oil, which is just as well. "Pure," "Pomace" or simply "Olive Oil" on the label indicate oils treated with chemicals and, in most cases, heat. These do not belong in anyone's kitchen. You lose nutrients and flavor.
"Light" is pure marketing. Many think it means less calories. It does not. It means the oil is heavily filtered to remove flavor and color.
Going back to the premise of the less done to the oil the better, for delicate flavors check Italian oils for "Imperia" or "Lago di Garda" on the label. These areas of the Liguria and Lombardy regions, respectively, produce buttery, mild and luscious olive oils.
Reasonably Priced Extra-Virgin Olive Oils: Bella, Carapelli, Cost Plus, Crespi, Costco Kirkland's Toscano and Whole Foods 365. Every part of the country will have different selections. The period from January to April or May is hard times for the olive-oil lover.
The latest autumn-winter harvest isn't in the stores yet. An exception is the occasional "novella," or new oil, sent to America back before Christmas by canny shippers who know some of us will pay ridiculous prices for freshly pressed olive juice. Worse yet, the 2004-2005 oils are flattening out, dulling down. It is a sin to consider spending serious money on them.
Relief lies in the Southern Hemisphere. Sound oils are coming in from New Zealand, Argentina, Australia and the like. Their winter harvest is six months ahead of ours, April to July. So the 2005's are plentiful and in good shape. With limited exposure to these newbies, try Lakelands Olives' "Frantoio" olive oil made by Knut Kammann in Australia, and New Zealand's Moutere Grove. These are organic and available through www.kmrgreatfoods.com.
Check www.zingermans.com for oils from South Africa and Chile. New Zealand oils sometimes show up at www.chefshop.com, too. You will find other sources on the Web. Just bring money because premium olive oils are investments.
Source: Adapted from an article by Lynne Rossetto Kasper in the Knoxville News
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April 4, 2006
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